necati alkan

Local history

2005-11-07T16:53:00.000-08:00

Having lived since the end of April in Fatih, Istanbul, I have been using the same streets to places I go often, i.e. bus, metro, bank and the like. Today I went to the bank but was bored to use the same route. So, I just went further the street where I live - Balipaşa- and it was almost a little exciting journey! I live on this side of the street but did not know the other (right) where I walked today, seeing a gorgeous house that seems to be from the turn of the 19. century; that was refreshing since there are almost no historical houses in the district I live. There is also a small old mosque. And I discovered that if I go to the left side a bit further from my house there is a mosque called after "Balı Paşa"; that pasha was a successful commander in the 16. century who fought at the side of Sultan Süleyman I, "the Magnificent" (Kanunî, "lawgiver") in Hungary.

History upside down

2005-10-18T14:01:00.000-07:00

Have you ever been obsessed with an object? With something you see and look at it with awe and wonderment? This I felt when I was walking between the ruins of the ancient city of Olympos near Antalya, hid mysteriously in a valley in the midst of trees and bushes... with its walls, temple, agora, necropolis, and theatre with its amazing acoustic! You sit on the uppermost seat and hear what your friends *whisper* on the stage!!
What struck me most was this pillar or monument with some Greek inscription that stood upside down. I stood mesmerized for minutes in front of it and tried to imagine the people who lived there, what they said and did... and how they managed to turn this stone block upside down! (anyone who can read the Greek inscription what it says please let me know)

Back to the future :)

2005-10-13T18:00:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone!
I have not posted for a while, well.. I was never good at writing a diary and it seems to be the same with blogging ;) I will try. Things are moving forward slowly but surely in my life. I am still in Istanbul and found a job. I teach Turkish history part time at Yildiz Technical University.

Settling in...

2005-05-11T17:35:00.000-07:00

After one week's silence I can just say that I am just about living the "normal life" here in Istanbul because I have spent about 5 days with my older sisters and cousin. I took my sisters to all the must-be-places including decadent food orgies :) Don't ever miss the food in Turkey! Especially go to those side street restaurants where local people eat; it's the best. I recommend Taksim Square, of course, with its İstiklal Caddesi (shopping mile) on the European part of the city.
After having been ill for 2 days I went today to the Ottoman Archives to apply for research visa which will I get in 3 days. I already viewed a catalogue of the Foreign Ministry dealing with political matters in various countries. My interest is Iran and I will soon be immersed in an ocean of thousand documents...
And.. soon I must meet people at universities here and inquire about jobs. Wish me luck.

Carpe diem.

I am listening to Istanbul...

2005-04-29T19:27:00.000-07:00

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;
At first there blows a gentle breeze
And the leaves on the trees
Softly flutter or sway;
Out there, far away,
The bells of water carriers incessantly ring;
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;
Then suddenly birds fly by,
Flocks of birds, high up, in a hue and cry
While nets are drawn in the fishing grounds
And a woman's feet begin to dabble in the water.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
The Grand Bazaar is serene and cool,
A hubbub at the hub of the market,
Mosque yards are brimful of pigeons,
At the docks while hammers bang and clang
Spring winds bear the smell of sweat;
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;
Still giddy since bygone bacchanals,
A seaside mansion with dingy boathouses is fast asleep,
Amid the din and drone of southern winds, reposed,
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
Now a dainty girl walks by on the sidewalk:
Cusswords, tunes and songs, malapert remarks;
Something falls on the ground out of her hand,
It's a rose I guess.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.

I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed;
A bird flutters round your skirt;
I know your brow is moist with sweat
And your lips are wet.
A silver moon rises beyond the pine trees:
I can sense it all in your heart's throbbing.
I am listening to Istanbul, intent, my eyes closed.
-- Orhan Veli

Why Istanbul?

2005-04-29T17:10:00.000-07:00

There are countless reasons to come to Istanbul! Why am I here? Well, we have the biggest archives in the world: the Ottoman state archives that has literally millions of documents on any topic you can imagine about modern Ottoman history, i.e. from the 17. to the early 20. centuries. A mine of information for anyone who wants to do serious research in Ottoman studies. My field as a research assistant right now are Irano-Ottoman relations. Happy digging :)

Istanbul, mon amour...

2005-04-29T17:02:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I had a pleasant train trip from Haifa to Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv and a thorough but friendly check-in that lasted 1 hour or so. Since one of the security staff lost a Turkish official paper of mine- to prove that I was a Turkish citizen and retain all my rights in Turkey- I received sincere apologies and was escorted to the passport control as a recompense and everything was easier... Approaching Istanbul- the city built on seven hills- by airplane with the view of the Bosphorus and during night the lights shimmering like milllions of gems always takes my breath away! With a little delay we landed around 9 pm local time after which I checked out very quickly, followed by a short travel by metro to the "old city" of Istanbul: Fatih. One of the first suburbs founded just after the conquest of Constantinople in 1453 by Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror (Fatih). The weather is partly cloudy, partly rainy; not what I excepted...